Photographing birds, especially wild birds, can be quite challenging. Internet articles cover everything from “bird photography tips” to “the art of bird photography,” but many of them are not detailed enough and do not provide adequate information for amateur bird photographers.
This guide is based on my years of experience photographing birds. It includes every tip I know about taking high-quality photos of birds, so you could consider it an introduction to bird photography. You can also use parts of this article to find and approach birds. For further information on locating birds and approaching birds, read the following sections.
Camera Equipment
Wild bird photography involves a lot of camera gear. You will need either a solid camera and one or more long telephoto lenses unless you are photographing ducks and geese that are not afraid of people.
If you want to get the best results with fast-action photography, pick a camera that can handle at least 1/2000 of a second shutter speed with 6 to 9 frames per second and a large enough camera buffer to handle large bursts, with a reliable autofocus system for quick focus acquisition.
Almost any modern digital camera (whether DSLR or mirrorless) should be able to shoot up to 1/2000 of a second. A professional camera with fast frames per second and effective autofocus, such as the Nikon D850 or Canon 7D Mark II, is ideally suited for fast-action and wildlife photography.
It doesn’t mean you can’t capture birds with an entry-level DSLR, it just means that you might miss a good shot if your camera is not fast enough. The most important thing to remember – frame rates are not as important as focus acquisition speeds on both cameras and lenses.
Lenses
There is no clear answer to the question of which lens is the best because it all depends on how much you are willing to spend.
There are some of the world’s best bird photographers who cannot live without their 200-400mm, 400mm, 500mm, 600mm or 800mm lenses, preferably with optical stabilization and teleconverters.
Nikon
At current prices, the Nikon 500mm f/4E FL VR sells for $10,299, the 600mm f/4E FL VR is about $12,299, while the 800mm f/5.6 costs nearly as much as a new car.
Those are very expensive lenses and only professionals who make money by selling their images and those with large wallets can afford them.
Those who fall into the latter category should opt for something like the Nikon D5 or D500 + one of the above lenses plus a 1.4x TeleConverter (TC), as this combination will offer the best performance and reach.
Canon
Canon’s selection is going to be very similar and as extensive as Nikon’s, with plenty of great options.
Besides the 400mm to 800mm super-telephoto exotic glass, there are other great budget options, including the Canon 300mm f/4L IS plus 1.4x TC and the Canon 400mm f/5.6L (without IS).
Third Party
You should also consider third-party lenses.
For bird photography, Tamron’s and Sigma’s telephoto zooms are excellent choices. There are two lenses available from Sigma: the Sigma 150-600mm Contemporary and the Sigma 150-600mm Sport. Tamron’s 150-600mm VC G2 is excellent.
Even though Sony and Fuji do not have professional-grade super-telephoto lenses, they do have other solid options suitable for bird photography, such as 100-400mm variable aperture lenses. These lenses are excellent for bird photography.
Sensor – DX vs. FX
The focal lengths I have mentioned above are solely based on lenses. When mounted on a camera body, the sensor size will have an impact on the field of view, meaning what you see in the image and frame. When compared to full-frame sensors, smaller sensors will have a greater field of view.
Nikon DX cameras have crop factors of 1.5x and Canon DX cameras have crop factors of 1.6x. This means that the equivalent focal length of the lens (including the lens and teleconverter) can be approximated by multiplying the crop factor by the focal length of the lens (including the teleconverter).
For example, a Nikon 300mm f/4 lens with a 1.4x teleconverter (420mm total) mounted on a DX camera would be equivalent to a 630mm lens (420mm x 1.5) mounted on a full-frame (FX) camera. Thus, if you were photographing a bird from say 10 feet away, and you used a Nikon 300mm f/4 lens with a 1.4x teleconverter on a DX camera, you would need a 630mm lens on a full-frame / FX camera to achieve the same effect.
Tripod
Using heavy 500mm or 600mm lenses requires you to have a tripod and tripod head because hand-holding these lenses is not practical. A comprehensive guide to choosing a tripod is your best place to start when deciding on a tripod.
The ideal tripod would include solid carbon fiber legs that can support a considerable amount of weight, as well as a gimbal head, like the Wimberley WH-200. With such a setup, heavy lenses can be handled very well and the photographer is able to manage birds in flight with ease.
Camera Settings
The most important thing you can do to fix motion blur is to maintain fast shutter speeds, especially when photographing birds in flight or small birds moving extremely fast.
Occasionally a photographer may shoot at a slower shutter speed just to create a feeling of motion when the bird’s wings are blurred. But in most cases, you want to freeze the action.
To freeze the action, I set my shutter speed somewhere between 1/1600 and 1/1000. Digital cameras typically have the following camera modes: Manual, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, and Program. Aperture Priority is the camera mode I use most frequently for photography, including birding.
The Auto ISO feature on many modern cameras automatically adjusts the camera’s ISO based on the light conditions. For bird photography, you can choose a maximum ISO and a minimum shutter speed to maintain details. This feature is extremely useful and I use it often, setting the Auto-ISO to on, the maximum ISO to 1600, and the minimum shutter speed to 1/1000.
Here are my Nikon camera settings for bird photography:
- Camera Mode: Aperture Priority with aperture set to maximum aperture (wide open).
- Metering: Matrix Metering for most situations, but sometimes Spot Metering can provide better results.
- Release Mode: High Speed Continuous (fastest fps).
- Autofocus Mode: Single AF Point or Dynamic
- Shooting Menu:
- Image Quality: RAW
- NEF (RAW) recording: Type: Lossless compressed, NEF (RAW) bit depth: 14-bit
- White Balance: Auto
- Active D-Lighting: Off
- Vignette Control: Off
- High ISO NR: Normal
- ISO Sensitivity: 100 (Base ISO), ISO sensitivity auto control: On, Maximum sensitivity: 1600 or 3200, Minimum shutter speed: 1/1000
Finding and Approaching Birds
Finding birds for photography can be an exciting and rewarding experience. I recommend starting with the most common birds in your area; birds that are used to people and do not mind cooperating and posing for photographers. Where I live in Hawaii, finches, egrets, terns, and plovers are the most cooperative, and don’t mind “posing” for photographers.
- Research birding hotspots in your area. These could be nature reserves, wildlife sanctuaries, parks, wetlands, and coastal areas. Join online birding forums or groups to learn about popular locations for bird photography in your region.
- Learn the behavior and habitats of different bird species. Some birds prefer open fields, while others thrive in forests or wetlands. Knowing where to find certain types of birds will increase your chances of capturing them on camera.
- Invest in a good bird identification field guide or use bird identification apps like Merlin Bird ID (free from Cornell), iBird, or eBird. These resources will help you identify different bird species and learn about their habits.
- Bird photography requires patience. Birds can be elusive and easily spooked, so be prepared to spend time waiting for the right moment to capture a shot.
- The golden hours around sunrise and sunset are excellent times for bird photography. During these times, the lighting is soft and warm, and many birds are active.
- Wear neutral-colored clothing that blends into the environment. Avoid bright colors that might startle or disturb the birds.
- Consider using camouflage clothing or setting up a hide (a camouflaged shelter) to hide yourself from the birds. This allows you to get closer without alarming them.
- Move slowly and avoid sudden movements or loud noises. Birds are sensitive to disturbances, and sudden movements can cause them to fly away.
- Learn about the migratory patterns of birds in your area. During migration seasons, you might spot a greater variety of species passing through.
Remember that bird photography requires both technical skill and a deep respect for nature. Be patient, observe, and enjoy the process of capturing these incredible creatures in their natural habitats.