The name Santiago de Compostela itself evokes images of ancient pilgrimage routes, spiritual journeys, and centuries of history. We recently had the incredible opportunity to explore this remarkable city in northwestern Spain, and it truly lived up to its legendary status. We arrived with anticipation, ready to explore this historic city. Unfortunately, the Galician skies decided to greet us with a classic, blustery downpour – rain lashed sideways, driven by a determined wind.

Initial disappointment flickered, but Santiago isn’t a city to be deterred by a little water. Its magic, rooted in centuries of history and devotion, felt just as potent under grey skies, perhaps even more atmospheric. We adjusted our plans, trading sunny plaza lingering for cozy interiors and sheltered walkways. Here’s how we made the most of a very wet day in Santiago.

Seeking Refuge in the Magnificent Cathedral

Our first and most essential stop, rain or shine, was the heart of the city, the magnificent Praza do Obradoiro, the grand square dominated by the awe-inspiring Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Standing before this colossal structure, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of reverence, imagining countless pilgrims arriving here after weeks or months on the road. The architecture is a spectacular tapestry, a testament to different eras of construction, featuring striking romanesque architecture at its core, with later additions of Gothic and Baroque elements.

Stepping inside was like entering another world, a massive, protective shell against the storm outside. The sheer scale of the Romanesque architecture is breathtaking. The air is thick with history, reverence, and the faint scent of incense. It’s easy to spend a considerable amount of time simply absorbing the atmosphere, admiring the intricate stonework carved by medieval artisans.

Inside the Cathedral, there are specific things we made sure to see:

• The tomb of St. James beneath the high altar.
• The Botafumeiro (if we were lucky enough to catch a service where it swung!).
• The Portico da Gloria (even if some parts are currently undergoing restoration, the surviving elements are stunning).
• The detailed carvings and chapels throughout the vast interior.

Emerging back into the old quarter, the sound of the rain seemed less intrusive after the quiet grandeur of the basilica.

A Culinary Sanctuary: The Mercado de Abastos

Next, we headed for a place guaranteed to be bustling and warm: the Mercado de Abastos. Just a short walk from the Cathedral, this covered market is a vibrant hub of local life and gastronomy. The contrast between the grey, wet streets and the Mercado’s lively energy was striking. Inside, the air was filled with the mingled aromas of fresh seafood, produce, and regional delicacies.

The Mercado is a perfect place to escape the rain and indulge our senses. We wandered among the stalls, admiring the colorful displays and sampling local products.

Here are some delicious things we sought out at the Mercado:

• Artisanal cheese: Galicia produces fantastic cheeses like Tetilla and Arzúa-Ulloa. We found several vendors offering samples before we made our selection.
• Cured meats: Local cured meats, particularly Galician ham and sausages, were plentiful and incredibly tempting.
• Freshly baked empanadas (savory pastries) – perfect comfort food for a cold day.
• A glass of crisp local wine (often Albariño or Ribeiro) at one of the market’s small bars.
• Freshly shucked oysters or percebes (goose barnacles) if you’re adventurous!

It’s a fantastic spot to grab lunch, pick up edible souvenirs, or simply soak in the lively local atmosphere away from the elements.

Exploring the Old Quarter’s Sheltered Corners

While the rain made open squares less appealing, the old quarter of Santiago, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The old quarter is a maze of narrow streets with many arcades and overhanging buildings offering natural shelter. We pulled up our hoods and ventured out again, appreciating the medieval stonework gleaming under the rain. Wandering these ancient lanes, we felt connected to the countless travelers and residents who have navigated these paths over the centuries. It’s easy to imagine figures from history, perhaps even a determined soul like Marie Miner, finding beauty in the resilience of this place, rain or shine.

Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario

Nestled in the heart of Santiago de Compostela, the Mosteiro de San Martiño Pinario stands as a testament to centuries of history and religious devotion. More than just a monastery, it represents a significant chapter in Galician culture, its imposing architecture a captivating blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles reflecting the evolving tastes and influences that shaped its long and fascinating existence. From its humble beginnings as a Benedictine monastery to its later transformations and current status, San Martiño Pinario offers a rich tapestry of stories waiting to be uncovered, a place where the echoes of the past resonate within its venerable walls.

Cozying Up at Cafe de Altaira

No rainy day is complete without finding a truly cozy cafe. Located in the heart of the old quarter, Cafe de Altaira was exactly what we needed. Stepping inside felt like a warm embrace. It’s a classic, inviting spot with comfortable seating and a relaxed atmosphere. We settled in, ordered hot coffee (or perhaps another glass of local wine to continue the theme from the market!), and watched the rain streak down the windows. It was the perfect spot to rest our feet, dry off a bit, and simply enjoy the ambiance of Santiago unfolding outside our window, undisturbed by the weather.

Making the Best of It

While a sunny day certainly has its appeal, our windy, rainy day in Santiago de Compostela proved to be unexpectedly charming. The weather forced us indoors, leading us to spend more time truly appreciating the majestic Cathedral and the vibrant energy of the Mercado de Abastos. Exploring the old quarter‘s sheltered nooks felt like discovering hidden secrets, and cozying up in Cafe de Altaira was the perfect antidote to the chill. It reinforced the idea that Santiago’s enduring spirit shines through, no matter what the skies decide to do. We left feeling warm, well-fed, and utterly captivated by this resilient and beautiful city.

To help anyone planning their own trip, here are some things we particularly enjoyed:

Things We Loved Doing:

• Spending time in the Praza do Obradoiro, soaking in the atmosphere.
• Getting lost (intentionally!) navigating the winding streets of the old quarter.
• Sampling cured meats and artisanal cheese at the Mercado de Abastos.
• Enjoying a glass of Galician wine in a local tavern or cafe.
• Simply sitting on a bench and people-watching – especially seeing the pilgrims arrive.

And here are some must-see spots we recommend:

Must-See Spots:

• The Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela (inside and out!).
• The Mercado de Abastos for a sensory overload.
• Quinta da Auga (if you have time for a slightly fancier meal outside the center).
• Alameda Park for lovely views back towards the Cathedral.
• Any of the numerous churches scattered throughout the medieval old quarter.

Santiago de Compostela is more than just a historical city; it’s an experience. It’s a place where history feels alive, where food is a celebration, and where the spirit of pilgrimage, whether physical or metaphorical, is palpable. We left feeling inspired and deeply connected to this incredible corner of Spain. If you have the chance, we highly recommend making the journey yourself.